I believe that the way food helps understanding cultures, nothing else does. All of us are looking for authentic local experiences to avoid the rut of touristy template places everywhere. Food & local food markets become the pivotal starting points as local communities come together to share their heritage as food. You’ll be surprised that as you gawk, locals will extend a smile and offer a generous welcome to their part of the world.
Sri-lankan food, the heaps of rice and depths of spicy curries. It's never enough here in paradise island. For starters it is a tropical island - expect a lot of fresh tropical fruit, coconut and fish. For the most part you’d get a lot of rice(red rice, black rice, white, all sorts of fragrant beautiful rice.) Generally topped with Vegetarian Thiyal (local gourds in spicy coconut sauce) Pariappu(Lentils in spices) fish or chicken curry, Wambatu Moju(fried eggplant), daal and Gotukola(Green leaves Sambol) This is their go to meal and is extremely satisfying, I had a few many plates throughout the trip and can’t wait to go back and get more.
Impressions-wise Sri Lankan food is being dumbed down for most part of popular tourist places. Hoppers are as common-place as Curry and Rice, you are bound to get impatient to know what more you are eating without knowing much of the names. Small little eateries around the bus stops and other local markets. The rice and curry served at these places are unmistakably real. I lived for 15 days in Sri Lanka and I hardly complained.
Fish and Prawns and Crabs are extremely popular and also viable options. Pepper carb and spicy prawn curries are very common finds. Particularly cuttlefish & snapper are local favourites. There is also a strong affinity towards deep fried fish.
Hoppers! - The simple fermented cousin to a dosa in Sri Lanka is Hopper, much like its indian counterpart appam, you’d comply and accept it with everything! Prawns, Chicken curry. My personal favourite was with eggs and spicy coconut Sambol.
Pol Sambol and Lunu Miris - (Coconut red chilli Sambol and Dried Fish in Salt and Pol Sambol) These are identical twins but while the first one remains as a spicy spoon worthy condiment on everything, Lunu miris opens up an entire world of funkiness with equal parts of tart and chili that makes you salivate till the last grain on your plate.
Deviled - Srilankan’s are obsessed with deviled(read spicy red brothy curry) versions of everything. Served up with rice. This is the peak of how spicy things can get.
Move away from Colombo and head to Southwestern dreamscape - Hikkaduwa, a little ahead of the beachy town, I picked an airbnb that had the lady of the house cooking all the meals. I simply kept chasing her with my camera. She was kind enough to let me photograph her food and show me around the market. However, respecting her not wanting to be in the photos I could not picture her. Also, the serene surf waters of Hikkaduwa was Lalitha Amma’s backyard. Yogurt and fruit is an interesting post meal snack everywhere in Sri Lanka.
Move inwards on the island - Kandy the erstwhile capital of Ceylon and also the biggest buddhist center of all times - It has the temple of Tooth Relic and the food here is less spicier, look for Kukul Curry and Kothu. As Indian you grow up eating spices but nothing prepares you for Srilankan fare. If you are not a fan of south asian spicy food, kothu is your saviour. For most of my stay I sampled it a lot, egg, cheese, chicken, curry and even plain vegetarian one. Kothu is that comforting and noisy street food that you must eat while in Sri-lanka. It's kind of obnoxious not not to stand next to a kothu shop and not make the air ninja chops. Kandy has some of the biggest old-school bakeries.(the verdict shall always remain pending). The coconut Roti served with simple curries is a must have.
Reiterating, while you salivate, both because how spicy it can get with Lankan food and also because once you get the taste of it, you know you won’t be able to resist, its you getting lost in the paradise found.
Are you looking for more than just a 750 odd words on Sri Lankan food - get our 15 days Sri Lankan Itinerary here.
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